Even before you arrive on the idyllic, sandy beach and tropical forest island, you can’t help thinking about libraries. There’s only one town here and its name is Dewey. It’s not big and its roads are bumpy. As you drive your golf cart – quite a few visitors use golf carts to get around – you’ll leave the thin stretch of tarmac that passes for an airport and head for downtown Dewey passing boats on your left and bars, a school and the island generator on your right. Reach the other side of town and you’ll see a sign that says: Culebra Community Library. Open.
Eighteen hundred people on an island of ten square miles built this. No government funding, no statutory laws forcing the local council to fund and promote reading and literacy. This is people power.
If you’re in a golf cart it is best to park up a hundred yards from the entrance. The bumpy road gets very bumpy. But all the better because the walk allows you to see the brickwork mosaic before the library entrance. It pictures giant leatherback turtles. If you have ever heard of Culebra, the turtles are probably why. The beaches here are one of the leatherback’s most important breeding spots.
Lori Novis, Culebra’s librarian, is proud of the new entrance, recently completed by a local artist, as she begins a tour of what is a truly remarkable achievement. Lori came here in ’07 after falling in love with the island on vacation. But the library predates her. It was started as a not-for-profit organisation in 2006 and founded with a donation from Dotty Hill as a memorial to her daughter, Sandy, who was killed in an air accident in 1996. It was established in a trailer next to the Fire Station. Lori points out the spot. A horse is standing there. The locals still use horses to get around.
Today, there are two trailers and a roofed deck joining the trailers. The total surface area is 3600 square feet, half indoors, half out. Free wifi is available throughout and customers sit outdoors, read and research on their laptops. People live in the wide open here, except in the hurricane season. And true enough, there are a few damp volumes that were caught napping by the recent visit of hurricane Irene. However, the roof stayed on and kept the stock safe.
“All our stock is donated,” says Lori. “The new deck and roof cost us $40,000 and came from the Rotary Club of San Juan. Everything has been achieved through fund-raising, grant applications, donations and voluntary help. Even the cinema!”
One half of one trailer has been made into a cinema, with plush seats and popcorn tub holders in the arms and a big flat screen TV. The trailer walls have been given that glitzy cinema feel with red wall covering. Just outside the cinema is the sewing centre where classes are held in traditional sewing and quilt-making.
“An island is a lifeboat,” explains Lori, “and Culebra Community Library is the lifeboat’s communications room, the islander’s point of contact with its own past and a much bigger world. Without it how do we learn of what’s happening, what careers or jobs our kids might choose, what opportunities are available, what people are thinking outside our ten square miles?”
There are real issues here. A largely Hispanic population whose language was at first proscribed by the US when it invaded in 1898, residents live in a non-autonomous region of the USA without a vote on central US government. This poses problems with regard to issues of equality of opportunity. The library is a means to find a voice and realise choices for the island’s inhabitants, especially the young.
Puerto Rico, of which Culebra forms a part, was a colony of the Spanish empire for over 400 years. As today Spanish is officially America’s second language, the opportunities for a broader cultural dialogue on an international stage and recognition for a divergent literary tradition to that of mainstream USA are perhaps the